Melanin and skin: what it does and cannot do

Melanin production

Melanin is the substance that gives skin its colour. AAD explains that, in medium to dark skin tones, a trigger can make the skin produce extra melanin and leave dark spots or patches 1. That is a useful starting point for understanding pigmentation; it is not a way to diagnose every mark or rank one complexion above another.

Distribution and tone

For a new patch, describe what changed rather than assuming that more pigment means more protection or that every difference needs a lightening product. AAD lists several possible dark-spot triggers, including a pimple or psoriasis patch clearing, a healing injury, certain medicines, an irritating skin or hair product and hormonal changes 356. The underlying cause matters when choosing care.

Protection has limits

A widespread misconception is that rich melanin removes the necessity for daily sun protection. Dermatological evidence confirms that having darker skin does not render the skin immune to sun damage or pigmentary disorders 24. In fact, individuals with darker skin tones face a heightened risk that ultraviolet (UV) rays and visible light from the sun will induce or worsen dark spots and hyperpigmentation 2.

Furthermore, everyday activities such as walking around the neighbourhood, commuting, or outdoor errands expose unprotected skin to ongoing solar radiation 4. Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays drive premature skin ageing—such as fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging—while Ultraviolet B (UVB) rays cause surface cell damage and sunburn 78. While SPF 15 filters out 93% of UVB rays, SPF 30 filters out 97% 8. Because no sunscreen filters 100% of UVB rays, broader photoprotection—including seeking shade and wearing protective clothing and hats—remains essential regardless of skin tone 89.

Inflammation and pigment

Because darker skin tones readily produce extra melanin in response to irritation, skin inflammation directly impacts long-term tone 13. Common daily practices that cause physical or chemical trauma can trigger hyperpigmentation 610:

• Aggressive Exfoliation: Mechanical scrubbing or strong chemical exfoliants can disrupt the skin barrier, leading to irritation, redness, or increased dark spot formation in darker complexions 1011. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) cause surface exfoliation, but topical AHA application also increases UV sensitivity 1213.
• Irritating Products: AAD advises avoiding products that irritate your skin and never applying liquid bleach to it. It warns that some imported fading products have contained unlisted steroids or mercury; its examples of steroid harm include thinning, fragility and permanent discolouration 61415.
• Skin Conditions & Injury: A healing pimple or injury can leave a dark spot that may take 6 to 12 months to fade if shallow, or years if deep in the dermal layers 31617.

Everyday protection choices

For everyday care, dermatologists recommend a consistent, gentle daily regimen 91718:

1. Daily Broad-Spectrum Sunscreen: Apply a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every day 91719.
2. Tinted Sunscreen with Iron Oxide: For darker skin tones, tinted sunscreens formulated with iron oxide can help protect against visible light—a cause of dark spots—and can help avoid a white cast; check the actual shade and finish 2171920. Reapply every two hours when outdoors, or after swimming and sweating 2122.
3. Gentle Cleansing & Care: Wash twice daily with a mild, non-abrasive, fragrance-free cleanser using fingertips rather than rough sponges or cloths 6182324.
4. Targeted Active Ingredients: When fading existing spots, choose evidence-backed ingredients such as vitamin C, retinol, azelaic acid, glycolic acid, or kojic acid, according to actual directions and individual advice; an ingredient name alone does not establish that a product suits you 2526.

For ordinary beauty appointments, see Luté’s listed treatments. New or persistent skin changes are clinical questions rather than proof that a cosmetic appointment is needed.

Myth-and-evidence table: Melanin and everyday care