Natural moisturising factors (NMF) describe substances involved in the outer skin’s water-holding capacity. DermNet describes NMF arising from the breakdown of filaggrin, a structural protein. A product’s use of the term does not by itself identify its whole formula or prove what it will do for your skin. 1 Selecting an appropriate skincare product relies on matching product forms—such as gels, lotions, creams, or ointments—to your personal comfort and skin type rather than attempting to award a single formula an absolute quality score 2.
The term explained
In dermatology, filaggrin is a specialised structural filament-aggregating protein that maintains the structural and mechanical integrity of the stratum corneum 1. As filaggrin breaks down, its degradation products form natural moisturising factors (NMF) 1. These naturally occurring substances contribute directly to the water-holding capacity and acidic pH of the outer skin barrier 1. Keep that biological explanation separate from a particular product claim. Read the actual ingredient list and directions; do not assume a front-label phrase describes a complete ingredient inventory. For a broader foundation on skin barrier health, explore our general skincare guides and our detailed overview on skin basics and barrier function.
Components and functions
Biological NMF comprises a complex mixture of humectant compounds generated within corneocytes 1. This explanation does not mean an NMF-labelled moisturiser replaces sunscreen or other sun protection. In commercial skincare products, manufacturers often include complementary hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, which AAD discusses as ingredients to consider for dry skin 3. Understanding how these ingredients support skin comfort helps clarify common industry terms; for instance, you can read more in our guide on what skin detox means in facial skincare.
Formula context
A finished moisturising product operates both by introducing moisture into the skin and by preventing existing water from evaporating 2. Formulations vary across distinct formats: water-based gels offer a light feel; lotions provide lightweight everyday hydration; creams have a higher oil content; and ointments are the thickest format, which AAD discusses for dry skin 2. Rather than judging a formula purely by marketing terms on the front label, consider how the format, intended area and directions fit your needs 2 4. To assess how your skin behaves before picking a product form, refer to our walkthrough on how to work out your skin type gently.
Label questions
When reviewing product packaging, distinguish between individual ingredient names and marketing claims.
- Is NMF an individual raw material? No, NMF describes a biological group of filaggrin breakdown products that maintain stratum corneum water-holding capacity 1.
- What should I look for on the ingredient list? Scan the detailed back panel for recognised hydrating agents such as ceramides or hyaluronic acid 3.
- How do product vehicles differ? Gels are light and water-based, creams are thicker with higher oil content, and ointments offer the thickest consistency for dry skin 2.
- Are non-comedogenic claims important? AAD uses non-comedogenic to describe products formulated not to clog pores. It is not a guarantee of a reaction-free result for every user. 5
Comfort-based review
Rather than seeking a "perfect" formula score, evaluate how a moisturiser fits into your daily routine. Applying a moisturiser immediately after showering while skin is damp helps trap water and prevent evaporation loss 6. Choosing fragrance-free options helps reduce potential irritation, particularly for sensitive or dry skin types 3 6.
Practical Asset: NMF Label Glossary & Formula Comparison Worksheet
Use this personal glossary and comparison sheet to separate an ingredient explanation from an actual product claim. It does not certify that one formula is best.
Part 1: Ingredient Family vs. Product Promise Glossary
| Category | Label Term / Ingredient Family | Biological / Formula Role | Primary Product Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| Physiological NMF | Filaggrin Degradation Products | Breakdown products of filaggrin protein in stratum corneum 1 | Maintains natural water-holding capacity and acidic pH 1 |
| Hydrating Lipids | Ceramides | Waxy lipid molecules 3 | Ingredient AAD discusses in moisturiser choice 3 |
| Humectants | Hyaluronic Acid | Hydrating ingredient discussed by AAD 3 | Ingredient AAD discusses in moisturiser choice 3 |
| Vehicle Formats | Gels / Creams / Ointments | Product bases ranging from light water-based gels to thick ointments 2 | Puts moisture in skin and prevents water loss 2 |
Part 2: Product Evaluation & Choice Checklist
Use this worksheet to evaluate new products against your skin comfort requirements.
Product Name under Review: ________________________________________ [Blank reader-choice field] Target Application Area: ________________________________________ [Blank reader-choice field]
- [ ] Product-format questions
- Gels: Light, water-based feel 2
- Lotions: Intermediate fluid hydration 2
- Creams: Thicker, higher oil content 2
- Ointments: Thickest format; suitability still depends on the product and individual needs 2
- [ ] Ingredient Scan
- Contains ceramides or hyaluronic acid 3
- Fragrance-free formulation 3 6
- Labelled non-comedogenic (does not block pores) 5
- [ ] Application Timing
- Planned application immediately after shower/bathing on damp skin 6